Two boys and an Island
I've been traveling for the past few days in Iceland with my best friend, Scott. Here are (a bit more than) a few reflections and musings from our time together.
Scott Triedman: traveler, adventurer, friend
If you know Scott, you know that he's traveled the world - probably more than any of the people that are receiving this email. I've never really appreciated, though, that Scott is an expert traveler. He has certain credentials earn him this distinction. The first, of course, is experience. He has been to more countries than most people that I know - and he's been doing it his whole life. Beginning with his summer camp experiences in northern Europe, continuing as an adult with world travels with MJ, and BIG trips to dogsled in northern Minnesota, adventuring in Iceland, or hiking in the Dolomites. He's done it all...
It turns out that this is more than his passion - it is his gift.
I guess this gift may not be a gift - but rather a carefully honed expertise after traveling his whole life. This insight came from a story he told about his recent trip to New Zealand. They didn't have a car when he first arrived so he set out on foot to get his bearings with his son, Cole. The city, as he explained, is a confusing web of disconnected streets. But he wanted Cole to learn his way around, so he taught him to notice landmarks - buildings, flagpoles, hills, colors... everything. They'd walk a while - the Scott would tell Cole to find his way home. When he got stuck, Scott would offer a hint - not about the direction to take - but pointing out a landmark. Hmmmmm...Scott's first trip to Iceland was a dozen years ago. He was here for a week or so - but developed a deep connection and understanding of the place, it's history, and the geography. He remembers EVERYTHING. Two examples. Tuesday night, Scott expressed a taste for Indian food and wanted to find a restaurant that he'd visited on his first trip. We were walking the streets of the city - and he was trying to remember its location, what it looked like, etc. We passed one - but it didn't look right; another... he realized it was on the wrong side of the street. Finally, he remembered it wasn't on the main street - but on a street parallel - and soon after... we were there (great meal BTW!). Another happened last night as we were driving 75 miles after dinner to our hotel in Kirkjubaejarklaustur (seriously? 21 letters?). He'd been noticing landmarks along the way and sharing points of interest as they passed - most that he'd remembered from his first trip. Then, as we approached a rise in the road with a slight bend to the left, he announced that the town of Vik would be coming up soon... and it was, immediately after the turn! Uncanny!
Finally, he's an incredible friend who is happy to share his expertise and his gift. When I received the invitation, I was initially wary because it would interfere with my vacation with Bari. But with her encouragement, I accepted the invitation - then sat back as Scott selected the location and set the itinerary. I couldn't be happier nor feel luckier to be his guest. It's been such a thrill to see him "in his element" and to share the incredible country that he chose as our destination. The other thing you should know about Scott is that he is an adventurer. He chooses the most extreme activity he can find - then jumps in with both feet (more on that later). If you ever receive an invitation ... take it - you won't be sorry!
Ok... enough about Scott?
Iceland (Island)
This place is incredible... a unique geography & geology with a unique culture and history (I'm not much of a historian - so you'll have to get this part of the perspective from someone else)
Iceland's population is small, about 330,000 (although there are considerably more sheep & Icelandic ponies than people... no stats to offer, though) and incredibly homogeneous due, at least in part, to its location. Yesterday's guide, Addie, is able to trace his family heritage more than six hundred years! In fact, this is unusual - and the government recently completed a genealogy map that traces (most of) the population back six generations. This has incredible implications to science and disease. Of course, Americans would view this map as an invasion of their privacy; instead Icelanders seem to take it more as a sense of pride and distinction. Addie told us about an iPhone app that can map a photo to your own heritage - and tell you if you're related to the person. An important tool for dating?
The lack of paranoia was also evidenced by our interaction with our tour company yesterday. They knew us as Scott and Alan - and by email addresses. No last names, no liability waivers. Just people - interacting - without looking over their shoulder to figure out if someone might sue over an accident.
Actually, I've probably mischaracterized this quality as paranoia. Instead, I think it's about a culture with a collective spirit that we lack in our country.
Iceland has a volunteer rescue organization that responds to all emergencies in the country. They bring their expertise and their capabilities to assist whenever they're called. Addie, our guide, is proudly one of them - so is his mother, brother & grandfather (maybe others - these are the ones he mentioned). In Thormorsk, where we hiked and cavorted yesterday, there are approximately 250 people in his "group". Everyone has a job - an expertise - and a role in the team. Recently, a French traveler (I cannot tell you how much he enjoyed letting us know that this person was from France... along with Belgium & The Netherlands - I got the impression they've been typecast as wreckless) got lost on the glacier for more than 24 hours. The traveler had a cell phone and was able to call for help. He had a rough map of the area - but not detailed with trails or landmarks - and no supplies. Quickly, more than 200 people mobilized with 20 super jeeps, 40 snowmobiles, and a helicopter to locate and evacuate the dope.
A few more small observations. Crime? During Scott’s first visit he was shocked to see a young mom leave her sleeping baby in a stroller on the street while she went inside to shop for groceries. She was clearly unconcerned that anything bad would happen while she was inside. Tuesday, we drove through Eryabakka, the site of the country’s largest prison – with 70 beds – and 60-70% occupancy. They do have an emerging prison capacity crisis, as the result of the 2008 economic collapse. Small bit about history - that might provide a bit of insight about the collective culture. Our first stop was a visit to Thingvellir which has two distinctions. It is located at the junction of the European and American tectonic plates which, over time have been the site of many earthquakes that have moved the edges plates apart leaving sheer cliffs on either side and a valley in the middle. It was also the site of Europe’s first parliament in 972. Representatives from across the country would gather on both sides of the rift (one labeled blue, the other red?) with the speaker in the precarious position in the valley below. Unpopular speakers were attacked … interesting how architecture relates to function – perhaps we should renovate Congress? But I digress… Sorry if I gave the wrong impression – this story was supposed to present another aspect of the culture that lead to a more collective culture. Maybe it was just a digression?
You may remember (I didn’t) that Iceland played an important role. When Iceland privatized its banks, the new owners took on debt (lots of it) to finance the purchase – then set out to grow. Between 2003-06, deposits rose more than 100x – and, on paper, the wealth of Icelanders tripled. Sustainable?
One last note for the fishermen (and women!). During the boom, the abundance of money drove prices for many of Iceland’s treasures through the roof. For example, Addie recently visited a private fishing spot that charges $2,000 for a one-day license. His favorite (and preferred spot) costs $10 per day. Fish taste the same.
Volcanos
Iceland’s landscape is unique and constantly changing. As we drive through the country, we are struck by the many different appearances that volcanic ash & debris can take. Sometimes black with few signs of life – others with a deep, lush carpet of moss. Rivers being carved and recarved with glacial runoff. And with each new eruption (every 2-3 years) comes new features.
We were introduced to one such feature as we entered the valley of Thormorsk (forest of Thor … which reminds me of the Icelandic joke about being lost in a forest… stand up) yesterday. Legend says that this mountain-cap was blown off in an ancient eruption – then slid on the ice before coming to rest at its current location - in the middle of the barren riverbed. Crazy.
We’re all familiar with Eyjalfjallajokul (or E16… E+16 letters) eruption in 2010 – that shut down Eurpoe’s airspace for nearly three weeks as the plume of ash created a hazard for jets. Geologist closely monitor all seismic activity for signs of eruptions – but this one went un-noticed because they were masked by the aftershocks from another eruption two weeks earlier. That is, until a farmer called to say that his animals were acting strangely. The eruption happened the next day.
The eruption released a flood from water trapped below the glacier and newly melted water. The water flowed into a lake at the bottom of one of the tongues of the glacier. The water overran then completely washed away the banks of a centuries-old lake and drained its contents into the raging flood. These waters raced through the valley at breakneck speed and eventually came to a road that was at risk of failing from the pressure. Quick thinking brought bulldozers to the scene to cut a gash in the road to let the water through – and saved the rest of the road (road was back in place within two weeks!).
This level of volcanic activity leads to a heightened readiness and preparedness for the next event. Geologists are now watching a massive volcano in the same area and predict an eruption soon. This volcano has the potential for an eruption 1000x the size of E16 – and might give nearby residents less than 15 minutes warning to evacuate. They are ready – with emergency provisions handy and easy to find – and a carefully made and constantly practiced plan. Oh yea… coordinated by the volunteer rescue organization.
Our Adventures
Yesterday, Scott and I hired a guide to take us ice climbing on E16 then canyoning nearby.
Addie is 26, recently married with a child on the way. He and his wife were married in "church" built by famous Viking. At the time, churches were built when the Danes insisted that Icelanders become Christian - but the Vikings who lacked religion used their churches as secret meeting places to plan their next adventure. Although the building has been rebuilt several times, it stands on the same site as this ancient Icelandic “hero”.
I’ve never met a more self-reliant person than Addie. We spent the day traveling in a super-jeep – a modified Toyota Land Cruiser that’s equipped with huge tires and special suspension that allow it to cross rivers, traverse glaciers, and climb mountains. He felt that he needed to complete the modifications himself so he’d know how to fix something if it ever broke in the back country (spare parts in the back of the truck). And he’s building his own house with his brother and father – and a network of tradesmen friends in the community (nope… he won’t come to Cranston to help with our renovation).
We started with ice climbing on the E16 glacier. We strapped on our climbing harnesses & crampons then marched up the side of the slope. Addie walked and often ran across and up the slope with an ease that belied the difficulty. He might as well been taking a walk in the park. Scott was nearly as good. His experience with the crampons showed. He kicked in with his toes and scurried up the steep slope with ease. When it came to climbing with the ice axes and the ropes, he was equally capable. He climbed the 100’ slope several times – gaining confidence and speed on each trip. Me… not my thing. I couldn’t get the hang of the crampons – I wasn’t aggressive enough and eventually sat on the sidelines to observe and photograph.
We then moved across the valley to a narrow crack in the hillside to begin our canyoning adventure – which turned out to be one of the most exhilarating and fun experience in recent memory.
We started by donning our dry suits (down to our undies underneath... TMI?) to protect us from the 5C (40F) waters. Addie set ropes to help us walk along the side of a hill, to climb a slippery set of rocks, and to guide us through the fast moving water. Our first "obstacle" was a swim upstream in water that was over our heads and moving swiftly. We held to the rope and pulled ourselves along - keeping our feet along the wall to keep us from hitting the side. Next, we jumped into the "jacuzzi" - which was churning frothing water at the bottom of a waterfall. We jumped in to the froth - went straight underwater - then popped up and pulled ourselves along the rope to the other side. The final treat involved another swim upstream - this time the water was calmer and didn't require ropes. When we got to the end of the swim, we found ourselves at the bottom of a waterfall that was nearly 100' tall. The cool thing about these waterfalls is the rate at which the moving water changes the route of the water... this particular canyon had been moving steadily back into the hill over the years - leaving several older paths of the waterfall along the way (evidenced by smooth, rounded sides). We then made our way back the way we came - but without ropes this time... Each time we approached a climb, we jumped into the water. Jumps ranged from 6' to 15' and were loads of fun (except for the water jets that shot up the nose as we landed in the water).
Today, we’re off to Jokulsarlon to the Ice Bay Lagoon at the edge of the Vatnajokull glacier. And the sun is coming out… we are truly charmed.